What a pleasure it is to have more and more Nebbiolo grown in Australia. We’re not quite at Mascerello levels yet – it’s going to take decades – but more local Neb deliciousness than ever before.

The Longview Saturnus Nebbiolo 2020 is the latest from the Saturno boys who know the score with Italian varieties in this country. This 2020 Adelaide Hills release is good, ripe, interesting Australian Nebbiolo. There is a bit of the 2020 dried fruit in there – a bit more glacé cherry this year – but it’s still moderate and nicely varietal, carrying a lovely mix of that cherry fruit with hints mushroom and rosemary spice. I’d like a bit more tannins – it’s more approachable Langhe Neb than throaty Barolo, but I admire the mid-weight joy of this rather juicy varietal mode.

Best drinking: good now. No need to wait. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $50. Longview Vineyard website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle.