Following on from the delicate Zumma Pinot Noir, this is another light and lucid Mornington Pinot Noir, with this Crittenden Kangerong Pinot Noir 2021 coming off a Crittenden family block planted in the early 80s. Light ruby coloured, with a light and airy nose of strawberry fruit, this is anything but a big wine. It’s a little minty too, but not in a necessarily unwelcome mode. That gentle strawberry thang carries through to the palate too, and the finish has a noticeable acid tang. Is it a little underripe? It certainly threatens to be, but I can’t deny the beautiful limpid fresh fruit and energy.

Best drinking: nowish. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $55. Crittenden website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.