30 wines (and a perry!) that made it in July/August 2023

It’s time to celebrate some of the wines that did make it over the last two months.

You can consider this the anti-collection of Tuesday’s Almost Club. Given how hard I’ve been hitting the sample pile in recent weeks, this is just a taster.

There are also lots of well-priced wines in this collection, too… and a perry! Let’s dive in:

Balgownie Estate Centre Block Shiraz 2018

Big impact in this maturing Balgownie Shiraz. Too much? That’s the question. There’s a real essence of maturing Australian Shiraz on the nose – brick dust and plums in brandy. The palate is like a wall of plush, minty, plum power in that Central Victorian sort of mode, though amped up with the warm edges. It’s drying out a bit but hello, Shiraz power!

Best drinking: ready to go. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.2% alc., RRP $65. Balgownie website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Conte Estate Vine Shed Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This is the best of the Conte Estate range. A raw and cedary McLaren Vale Cabernet with a big heart. There’s a bit of mixed ripeness on the nose, but a robust palate of hearty cedary fruit and oak punches things along. Those tannins are raspy and firm but hey, that’s the schtick.

Best drinking: later. Give it five years, hey? 17/20, 90/100, 14.5% alc., RRP $25. Conte Estate website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Feudo Arancio Hekate Passito 2019

Sicilian Passito, which is a wine I wish we saw more of in Australia (though who drinks sweet wine anyway?). All luscious honey marmalade, then juicy lemon citrus and barley sugar on a palate that feels fresh but a bit short. Plump, sweet, but lively acidity. A straightforward rather than profound wine, but plays a good game between energy and sweetness.

Best drinking: now. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12% alc., RRP $65. Imported to Australia by Single Vineyard Sellers. Would I buy it? A glass.

Feudo Arancio Inzolia 2022

Sicilian Inzolia. Simple, varietal, but enjoyable salty crunchy white. It smells and tastes of oreserved lemon, sea spray and just ripe pear. The tart palate has a nice tang to it as well – all present and correct. A good example of a fresh crunchy local white that would smashable to the max on a Sicilian beach (Sicily has great beaches, FWIW).

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13% alc., RRP $20. Also imported by Single Vineyard Sellers. Would I buy it? Share a bottle from the ice bucket.

First Foot Forward Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Dead serious Yarra Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented in amphora and the grapes come from the Lone Star Creek Vineyard. Pithy, tangy and phenolic Sauv it is too, with this lemony flood that carries through the palate before it gets all pithy and tart to finish. It’s plenty interesting (and complex), but a bit angular to be super delicious.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13% alc., RRP $32. First Foot Forward website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.

Hewitson Truffle Row Carignan Syrah Cinsault 2022

Another approachable Hewitson Barossa red that I like. Light to medium-bodied, all purple fruit and easy charm in this gentle Barossan red. Violets, purple jubes, mulberry, the palate light, juicy and fun with just enough tannins to sustain. Uncomplicated and good.

Best drinking: nowish. 17/20, 90/100. 13% alc., RRP $35. Hewitson website. Would I buy it? A glass or so.

Hickinbotham The Nest Cabernet Franc 2021

This is more McLaren Vale red than Can Franc, but not without charm. This is such a thickset release too – oak-forward, luscious, alcoholic and a bit bitter. It’s so oaky and thick that the variety is harder to nail down. There’s excellent grainy width and heft, though it does get a bit too much.

Best drinking: to fifteen years easy. Will appreciate a rest in the cellar. 17.5/20, 91/00. 14% alc., RRP $90. Hickinbotham Vineyard website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.

Higher Plane ‘Time for Heroes’ Malbec 2022

Lots of charismatic wines in the lo-fi new Higher Plane range. This Malbec goes ok. Great purple colour. Pencil shavings, mulberry, purple fruit – all correct Malbec-y things. It’s only mid-weight, and plenty of furry tannins for this lightish palate too. There’s an interesting leathery edge here which adds some flavour, but it’s also jubey and obvious. Long though. Goes ok and well priced.

Best drinking: over the next few years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.5% alc., RRP $29. Higher Plane website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Higher Plane ‘Two to Tango’ Cabernet Malbec 2021

Substantial wine this. It spends 17 months in wood, which is a surprise for a $29 wine. Did I mention it’s substantial? It’s more about Margaret River Cab than about Malbec (which makes sense as it’s 80% Cab). A dark brooding sort of nose – it doesn’t feel approachable at all. Bitter and dark, complete with some mint. It tastes a bit desiccated and dry – tannic, withering and a bit ungenerous. A little blackberry fruit escapes, but this is rather mouth-puckering. I can’t write it off, though – it’s too serious for so few dollars.

Best drinking: over the next ten years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.5% alc., RRP $29. Higher Plane website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Howard Park Arbor Novae Grenache Shiraz 2022

It’s great to Swan Valley Grenache get a bit more love, and it drives this wine. Only very light ruby coloured, and it’s anything but a heavy wine. You can’t escape the sensation of how ripe that fruit can get, though – there is just this underlying headiness and warmth and sun-ripened grapes, the alcohol a little bitter through the tail. It’s still largely a bright and juicy wine with plenty of watermelon raspberry fruit appeal.

Best drinking: sooner rather than later. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14% alc., RRP $30. Howard Park website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Juxtaposed Sangiovese 2021

Probably the quietest wine in the Juxtaposed range, this McLaren Vale Sangiovese comes from the Bottin Vineyard. Plenty of Sangio charisma here, with forest berries and sandy, even a bit raspy tannins. Only mid-weight and slightly lean, but it feels proper varietal.

Best drinking: now to mid-term (five years for a start). 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.8% alc., RRP $33. Juxtaposed website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.

Logan Shiraz 2021

Orange region fruit for this Shiraz. Light and bright it is, too, though that also propels the vanilla oak forward. Indeed the oak is a bit dominant for what is a lithe cool clime, faintly herbal Shiraz style. It’s quite pretty, though, and the vanilla ice cream oak only lifts it more. Varietal and polished if just a smidgen bony and singular.

Best drinking: drinkable now, could be worth a few years to see if the oak folds in. It’s not going to fall over, given that natural acidity. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13% alc., RRP $35. Logan Wines website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Longview Devil’s Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Typically the most marginal wine in the Longview range, and no change here. Still, this is very tight Cabernet which is going to really count against it, plus a greenish edge to the tannins. Some cool dark berry mint lines, though, serving to make this a moody and dark wine, and there is a sleekness and elegance despite that green whisper Could be a sleeper wine, but not an easy drink now.

Best drinking: Wait. A five year sleep could be transformative. 17/20+, 90/100. 14% alc., RRP $30. Longview Vineyard website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Longview Vista Shiraz Barbera 2022

It’s meant to be easy drinking, and indeed it’s juicy but also edgy wine. There is a combo of inviting, quite ripe, red plum fruit and yet loads of acidity marking this as a wine of contrasts – fleshy and pulpy yet taut to finish like a white wine stuck in a red wine’s body. Interest here, regardless.

Best drinking: nowish. 17/20, 90/100. 14.5% alc., RRP $23. Longview Vineyard website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Palliser Estate Chardonnay 2020

A surprisingly forward vintage of the Palliser Chardonnay with oak toast sitting heavy on a slightly stodgy palate of toast, golden fruits and broad flavours. Oak tannins to finish as well. Concentration is all there; it just feels a bit heavy and oak marked. Long though. Score is a nod to the power.

Best drinking: Worth a wait for a year to see if it comes together. It might always be a good rather than great wine. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5% alc., RRP $45. Palliser Estate website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.

Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

In the scheme of things, a bargain Margaret River red. it’s a bit smudgy and diffuse, with eucalypt and blackberries, but the style is genuine Cabernet. There’s this open ripe flavour here, and then the raw tannins cut in. Not my favourite Ringbolt, but undeniably a genuine Margaret River, given it can be found in retail land for $25.

Best drinking: later. Give it at least two years then drink over another dozen. 17/20+, 90/100. 13.5% alc., RRP $30. Ringbolt website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.

Small Acres Cyder Sparkling Perry 2021

Look, a cider! A perry, even! Can’t say I drink much perry but I can appreciate this. Medium dry perry from Orange. Medium dry but not unbalanced at all – you mightn’t want it any drier as quite a tang. More bottle ferment than overt pear character. It’s a refreshing thing in the mode of the northern Spanish ciders – and not overtly pear at all. You’d call it clean cider first and perry second. Good though.

Best drinking: now. 3.5 stars. 6.6% alc., RRP $29. Small Acres Cyder website. Would I buy it? I’d go a single glass on a warm day.

Soumah Pinot Noir d’Soumah 2022

Easy to like this Pinot. Spicy cranberry and raspberry, it’s lightish with this tomato juice easy fruit. Varietal, proper tannins too. If anything, it’s just a bit too light, where I want more of everything. Still, proper Yarra Valley Pinot appeal can be found for just over $25.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5% alc., $34. Soumah website. Would I buy it? Several glasses.

Squitchy Lane Estate Pinot Noir 2019

A surprisingly primary Yarra Pinot. This only sees nine months in 25% new oak and it’s a real strawberry wine. Juicy and energetic, given it’s already four years old, though lacks a tannic bite and falls away a bit. A fun and pretty wine, though.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5% alc., RRP $34. Squitchy Lane website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.

Stonehaven Limited Vineyard Release Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

What a pleasure to see the return of the Stonehaven wines! Now back under the ownership of the CW Wines business, with a whole array of releases. This is Padthaway fruit too. Dark maroon coloured, with this Liquid Mars Bar oak all over the nose. Indeed, that oak is dominant on oak and palate, like liquid coffee and chocolate. It’s berried, so smooth and plush too, all making for this seamless, and quite powerful Cabernet. Would it be more impressive with less oak? Maybe not. Plushness for the win.

Best drinking: now and for fifteen years as a start. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5% alc., RRP $30. Stonehaven website. Would I buy it? A few glasses.

Stonehaven Limited Vineyard Release Wrattonbully Shiraz 2021

Also great to see a celebration of Limestone Coast sub regions in this Stonehaven range. This is Wrattonbully fruit. Lavish it is too. A flow of sweet vanilla ice cream oak floods your mouth. French oak, I think, but it’s like oak Icecream. There is some surprisingly fragrant purple fruit underneath with some of the black texta meets blackberry and mint Wrattonbully style. I like that fruit. Overall, this is very sleek and oaky but rather seamless too. The sweet oak finish is a bit overwrought, but this has a place and will win friends with its silken oaky form.

Best drinking: now and for a decade without even trying. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5% alc., RRP $30. Stonehaven website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.

Stonehaven Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

The biggest wine in the Stonehaven range, and it’s thick. Big bottle too. Dark red, all malted oak on the nose with hessian and dark berries. The warm palate is marked by oak and thick dark, very ripe berry fruit – a big wine, but built on sweet dark berry ripe fruit and artifice. A bit of a blunt object, but decent impact. You can see the power, but less would probably be more.

Best drinking: You can drink it now or in the decades ahead. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5% alc., RRP $60. Stonehaven website. Would I buy it? Just a glass.

Terre à Terre Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Thrown in with the latest Terre à Terre releases as a curio, and it’s in rude health. As ever, it’s Wrattonbully Sauvignon Blanc, barrel fermented and matured in a mix of barrels for 7 months. Waxy lanolin and lemon with dusty cashew is the trademark. The palate looks a bit sour, though the preserved lemon primary fruit is still kicking on, albeit with some dusty acidity to finish. 11 years and alive! A bit dusty and decrepit and the sour acidity hits hard. But that lemon and custard middle is still interesting.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13.5% alc., RRP ?. Terre à Terre website. Would I buy it? A single glass.

Tokar Estate Amphora Tempranillo 2021

A pretty Yarra Tempranillo. Cranberry and boysenberry bright red fruit. Exuberant juicy redness, savoury for a leafy leathery streak of drying tannins. You wouldn’t call this classically varietal, but it’s a pretty red. I feel it’s just a little lean for the tannins. Still classy.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14% alc., RRP $75. Tokar Estate website. Would I buy it? A few glasses.

The Vinden Headcase Somerset Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

A super fresh style of Hunter Valley Chardonnay from Angus Vinden. Spends just seven months in barrel with lees stirring. Delicate white peach apple juice style it is too – very gentle and fresh. Finessed, with light whipped butter oak and leesy influence adding layers on top. You could argue this is too light – it feels like very weak peach Dispirin on a casual look. But that ignores the freshness and delicacy here.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12.5% alc., RRP $60. Vinden Wines website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Tomich Woodside Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Another lean and tight 2022 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. There are going to be a few of them. This single vineyard Chardonnay from Woodside looks achingly backward too. Tart green melon, grapefruit and lemon. Ultra brisk and snappy grapefruit juice. Lacks much flavour but fresh and long. It’s going to get better.

Best drinking: later. Give it another year at least. 17/20, 90/100+. 13% alc., RRP $30. Tomich Wines. Would I buy it? A glass.

Worlds Apart Wines Hope Forest Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Barrel-fermented Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc that spent some time on skins. You can see the play here – a big mouthful of a wine, and it’s a ripe and rather opulent thing with passionfruit and guava aplenty. Grippy too! Drink it ice cold, as it gets fat fast. The phenolic punch really helps bring it back into shape, but it’s a bit fat chunky rather than classy. Undoubted intensity rescues it for a silver medal.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 13.1% alc., RRP $32. Worlds Apart Wines website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Shiraz 2021

Chunky Barossan red and so much regional flavour. It’s just a smidgen tart, but the plum fruit, baked earth and cocoa powder all makes for a rather unmistakable Barossan style.

Best drinking: good now and over the next decade. 17/20, 90/100. 14.5% alc., RRP $28. Yalumba website. Would I buy it? A glass.

Yangarra Blanc 2022

These new entry-level Yangarra wines are all wins, with approachable McLaren Vale styles at great prices. This white is 80% Grenache Blanc, and it’s an open, lemony thing too. Freshness, a bit of a phenolic tang, a yellow-green wine of hay and a lemony tang. Not profound, but a good, crisp, tangy McLaren Vale white.

Best drinking: nowish. 17/20, 90/100. 12.5% alc., RRP $30. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.

Yangarra Noir 2022

Grenache Carignan & Cinsaut (or Cinsault. Choose your spelling) based McLaren Vale red blend. Gently Grenachey, red jubey, open and honest berried wine is easy bountiful red berry flavours, light tannins and such an open personality. Maybe a little diffuse but plenty of bright fruit and easy charm. Good drink.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/00. 14% alc., RRP $30. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? Two glasses.

Yangarra PF Grenache 2022

Preservative-free McLaren Vale Grenache. No additions of any kind and isn’t that great to see something so genuine. Purple label and purple colours is the story here, with a palate chock full of bright and light berries. An exuberant Carbonic juiciness and sandy tannins give this interest too. It’s only light berry stuff but even has the cat’s tongue Grenache tannins to add interest. High quality, simply juicy preservative-free red.

Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 14% alc., RRP $30. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? A glass.