De Bortoli Riorret The Abbey Pinot Noir 2020. Burgundy via the Yarra Valley.

Why doesn’t De Bortoli get the love for Yarra Pinot? The wines are uniformly great; why do they slip below the radar?

This De Bortoli Riorret The Abbey Pinot Noir 2020 is a deadly serious release, too, with a structure you’d see in classic Burgundy, not modern Yarra Valley. Hello, tannins! It smells correct too, with a strawberry raspberry juice red fruit nose and a little ferny undergrowth. The palate is a ride between rather gruff tannins and this concentration that is so welcome. It’s a powerhouse red but so comfortable in its Pinosity – all dark fruit and a gentle meaty edge. Not an easy Pinot – not silky and light – but that’s the appeal. I dig it.

Actually, the only thing subpar here is my terrible bottle photo. Did I mention that black bottles are hard?

Best drinking: it’s going to get better over the next few years, but already great. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $45. De Bortoli website. Would I buy it? Sure would.