The wow of Frankland Estate Alter Weg 2023 (and the rest)

From deep in WA’s south-west, Frankland Estate flies the flag for the dual glories of Frankland River wine and Riesling.

These are great things to champion.

Frankland Estate has been certified organic since 2009, which also snuck a bit. The quality of the Riesling from this storied estate is entirely settled, though – they’re shit-hot wines. However, the Syrah was the surprise packet of this little trio, with a sexy time sophistication and carefully weighted power that would probably ‘out Syrah’ plenty of fancied Saint-Joseph.

The only observation I have about Frankland Estate is that beyond these heroic top wines, I see vintage inconsistency in the reds. There’s a bit of warmth here, a minty bit there. However, that’s probably a reminder that these are real wines from a proper cool-climate region. In my mind, Frankland is Riesling first, reds second, and this lineup isn’t going to change that.

Frankland Estate Alter Weg Riesling 2023

Alter Weg – aka ‘old way’. This is Riesling, picked ripe, then wild fermented and matured on full lees in a barrel for 11 months. It feels immediately Germanic, all green fruit power and swaggering intensity that wouldn’t go astray in a lineup of Grosses Gewächs. Importantly, it still looks like Riesling, too. Dried limes, citrus, and a little stonefruit, followed by a palate with layers of tangy limes and phenolic grip. You get this feeling that it comes going, keeps expanding, a full-bodied Riesling of sorts, with a slightly chewy impact and gently oxidative notes that only works because of the ripe fruit. It’s still very Australian and limey but a Riesling of extrovert power and weight. It’s an excellent wine, and apparently sells out in a flash, too. 18.7/20, 95/100.

Isolation Ridge Riesling 2023

Again with the Germanic green fruit flourish. These are ripe, rather than severe or tart, Riesling releases and it makes for so much more drinkability. This is less thrusting than the Alter Weg, with more clean lines than the power-packed Alter Weg, but it’s still such a star. There is such lovely acidity on this – mouthwatering green citrussy fruit without ever feeling harsh. Pure and delicious. 18.5/20, 94/100.

Isolation Ridge Syrah 2022

Delightfully purple. A little Viognier? It’s a really delicious and classy mid-weight purple wine. Syrah is polished and purple with cranberry and little purple berry edges. The whole polished, powerful, yet not heavy style is finished off with finessed tannins, just a little warmth, such perfect composure. This is high class Syrah to swoon over – I couldn’t shake out just how good this would go against a big name northern Rhone lineup. 18.7/20, 95/100.