When you’re repping the wines from an entire wine region, every masterclass becomes political.
What wines are in? Which appellations get the most love? Who is going to present it? For a wine region as powerful (and political) as California, I can only imagine how many egos are driving every decision, let alone tracking the wines down here in Australia.
That, to my mind, has to be a few of the wines in this Californian masterclass – delivered by the clever and engaging Elaine Chukan Brown in Sydney recently – didn’t necessarily feel masterclassy. Representative of style and region, perhaos, but not always what you’d call the best of the Golden State.
And the best of California wine is truly world-class. The (over-subscribed) masterclass was held in a cramped room (with a huge pylon in the middle) at Sydney’s 12 Micron restaurant. That was one end of the venue, with the other end dedicated to a larger walk-around trade tasting that was heavy with engaging, big-name Cali Cabs, Chardonnay, etc. So, as much as I liked listening to Elaine’s insights, there was much better drinking to be had on those tables down the hall, even if I was fighting for a glass with the rest of Sydney’s sommeliers.
Pricing is the other stumbling block with American wines. Friendly, but hardly complex, white wines with $US30 pricetags does not affordable drinking make. Frankly, you’re not going to escape with something delicious and Californian in Australia without parting with at least $A100+, which obviously buys a shedload of local wine (let alone compared to European wines internationally). No wonder Americans fill their suitcases with wine when on Euro holidays…
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