It’s been a large few weeks of non-wine adventures here at the Graham household recently, which means Australian Wine & Drinks Review misses out on some love.
One of the biggest diversions over the past fortnight was my last big race for 2023, the Buller SkyRun (aka Santa’s Run).
Easily the hardest trail run I’ve done, but tempered by stunning surrounds. Check the back drop behind me here (at 42km in, suffering):

But enough run chat, with Christmas beckoning, it’s time to ask that important question – what have you been buying and drinking this festive season (so far)?
I couldn’t help myself and picked up a few 2021 Bindi Pinots (Block 5 & 8) to kick off the month, even if I baulked a bit at the price. Baulked a lot, really. But hey, it’s Christmas. Otherwise, I’m largely dipping into the cellar this December, mainly because I’ve put more wines into the WineArk cabinet this year than I’ve taken out.
That means there will be Bollinger magnums, there will be Primo Joseph, and there will be Vat 1. Tradition dictates this.
What about you? What have you been buying? What will you be drinking for Christmas?
There have been a few enjoyable drinks otherwise this month, including this utterly sessionable Hawkers Summer IPA:

Speaking of sessionable, I really enjoyed the new Fleet Lichen Pinot Noir 2023, in all its lithe fragrance. There’s an elegance to the Koerner The Clare Cabernet Blend 2022, too, even if it tends to the atypically mid-weight for the robust Clare Cab paradigm. By contrast, I was slightly underwhelmed by a bottle of Christophe Chablis 2022, which looked soft and diffuse. The Chablis ride has been a curiously middling experience of late for me, with few winners.

What about you? What drinks have you loved this month?
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23 Comments
Pre xmas get together included 1990 389, 02 Runrig, 2012 Rockford Home Block, 2004 EJ Carr, Bruno Paillard and Andre Coulet NV’s, Yalumba Kingston Town to finish.
What looked good? How was the 389?
Wine of the night- still in top condition, beautifully integrated after 30 years. I have 94 and 98 as well, it will be interesting to see how they fare….
Best drinks in the last few weeks have been 2013 Pimpernel Viognier and 2026 Turkey Flat Grenache (Jimmy Watson winner vintage).
Mildly underwhelmed with a 2018 Domaine SC Guillard Bourgogne (previous vintages much more noteworthy).
Not a few bottles of Deep Woods and Turkey Flat rose on warm evenings or Yarra staples Hargreaves Hill lager and Watts River Session Ale.
2016 obviously and apologies for posting in the wrong place.
I’d recommend stocking up on current vintage Grenache ’21-23, cooler vintages have produced stunning examples. ’24 onwards likely to revert to warmer harvests. I particularly like Hayes and Izway but probably all sold.
Got Turkey Flat, Yangarra and Eperosa Grenache in the vintages you mention…
Home Block probably too soon – even after 8 hour decant.
Carr was fantastic and Andre Coulet was very tidy also
Sorry for the lysdexic spelling “Clouet” obviously (not Coulet)
What have I been drinking ? Bucketloads of pilsener in this vile Sydney heat. The Freshie Pils from Freshwater Brewing is a favourite. Will crack the new Nick O’Leary Denison chardonnay on Christmas day if it’s not too hot.
It has been a very rude heat. Much more red wine territory today though!
Drinking in past month – Giaconda ’21 vs By Farr Cote Chardonnay ’19. Both brilliant but such different styles. Chateau Rieussec ’10 was a great dessert option but still got decade’s ahead it feels like.
Bought Traviarti Nebb ’22 after wine culture tasting, lovely but needs time. Also got another ’22 Naturaliste Purus, so elegant and delicious imo
Agree re Chablis been disappointed in a lot of recent vintages. Australian offering better quality and value. Not value but a Domaine Roux Jadis ’20 all in amphora was brilliant recently too.
Agree about Chablis. Nearly all my 2018, 2019,and 2020 have been too tropical, white peachy and lacking the oyster and acid thing. Moved on to better muscadets and Loire chenins. Cheaper and better value too. All recent 2022 and 2023 Clare and Eden valley rieslings have been excellent. No need to lash out for exxy ones.
The tropical Chablis trend is utterly unenjoyable. Yes, a couple of hail/frost-dented warm vintages hasn’t helped, but still, it’s so unwelcome. There is so much more Chablis-like local Chardonnay now!
Hi Andrew,
I was fortunate enough recently to be able to drop in at 10 minutes by Tractor cell door last week whilst on holiday and was generously allowed to try pretty much anything I wanted for a negligible tasting fee. The chardonnays from estate upwards were magnificent. I could have bought any of them, but took the Judd.
Maybe I need to take a break from the French chardonnays and drink more Mornington. The pinots didnt hit those exalted heights with the exception of the fabulous McCutcheon. A mention for the pinot gris, which was possibly value wine of the entire range, and I don’t even like the varietal normally.
Here’s what I’ve been drinking this month:-
Jim Barry Florita Riesling, 2014
Vieux Telegraphe CDP blanc, 2021
Goisot Saint Bris Corps de Garde Blanc, 2019
Neldner Road Brennecke Grenache, 2021
Yabby Lake Single vineyard Pinot Noir, 2022
Chene Bleu Astralabe, 2018
Piper Heidsieck Essentiel
Clare/Eden rieslings, 2022/23
Quninta do Noval vintage port 2012
Yangarra estate Shiraz, 2021
I am partial to Mornington Chardonnay. Besides Ten Minutes, I really like Garagiste and Scorpo too.
You need to step out a little more…I’m a WA and NZ fan, Domaine Naturaliste, Thompson Specialist, McHenry Hohnen (most single vineyard examples), Man O’War, KR Coddington, Rimu Grove, Clearview (stunning).
Bought some Punch Flume to try (heard big things – 70’s plantings, low intervention vinification).
@Richard I have a fair amount of WA Chardonnay (with a particular love for the Deep Woods Reserves) as well as some NZ Hawkes Bay examples (Craggy Range, Elephant Hills, Mission).
Richard, had a 98 389 last week and it too was drinking beautifully. My last unfortunately but the best so far, so no rush to open I think.
Yes I suspect ’98 might best of the bunch, probably 5 years before I open another.
My two picks from December have been:
– Polperro 2017 Pinot Noir, and
– Latta 2021 Gewurtztraminer
Both so original and just lovely!
Christmas period will be dominated by French bubbles, Victorian chardonnays and a few different stickies which have been left undisturbed in the cellar for far too long (Noble One, Chalmers Lambrusco and an Oakdene Riesling from the Bellarine).
Merry Christmas, Andrew and all.
So, the chablis drama continues, 2021 Mont de Milieu from Christophe et Fils. Flat, slighty coarse, short palate, no finish, bit yellow. What is going on? Oakridge Funder & Diamond 2019 absolutely kills it!
The Chablis tropical flatness scourge continues!