The Classic Ceretto Barbaresco 2021 + more

It still surprises me that only 20-25% of Ceretto’s production is red wine.

Instead, this large and significant Barbaresco family winery is better known for Arneis (and moscato), despite what seems to be an outsized Nebbiolo reputation. It’s like Italy’s version of Shaw & Smith (for an Aussie comparison), and the Arneis is their Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc (with just as much fame).

What’s even more interesting is that, as Mattia Pagliasso (Ceretto’s export manager) explained in a tasting a little while back, the Ceretto family started off in the 1930s as Dolcetto winemakers. Founder Riccaro Ceretto didn’t own vineyards either – It was not until Bruno and Marcello Ceretto joined that they first bought vines.

Nowadays, the Ceretto family owns plots across Piedmont, crossing Barolo, Barberesco, Roero and beyond that have been farmed organically since 2015.

If all this sounds like a promotional piece, that’s purely because I like drinking these wines and appreciate the winery ethos. Classic wines, blue chip vibes, rather like Shaw & Smith.

I visited back in 2017, with Dave Fletcher digging out the wine thief for a barrel tour of Ceretto Nebbiolo. That was fun. And instructive too, because the family draw fruit from all over the Langhe, so you can taste everything from basic Nebbiolo d’Alba through legendary Cru Barbaresco and Barolo Cru.

Sadly, that trip didn’t involve a visit to either of the Ceretto-backed Michelin-starred restaurants in Alba, which we’ll call an oversight that needs correcting (ideally in truffle season).

Anyway, enough Italian food dreams, let’s look at some wines:

Ceretto Blangé Langhe Arneis 2022

The most important wine for the Ceretto business. Saline, a little almond meal, ripe but crunchy with a little (deliberate) CO2 spritz. That spritz is very important to Ceretto, apparently. Bang on for style and drinking – there’s the carefully judged pear fruit ripeness/crunch that is delightful. Yeah, it’s simple, but with a v. nice balance. 17.5/20, 91/100.

Ceretto Barbaresco 2021

The ‘classico’ for Ceretto and really shows the excellence of 2021. Slightly nutty, spiced cherry fruit. A nutty, tannic wine cloaked in tannic bitterness and bite. It’s savoury, slightly old school and dusty in a charming way. Refreshing, but it doesn’t jump out of the glass – really unforced and old school grace. Such drinkability, though. In time, when the pithy tannins resolve, this will overtake the Bernadot below. 18.5/20, 94/100+.

Ceretto Barbaresco Bernadot 2019

A step up to cru levels, ye this is bright and lucid, more of an open red fruit jam ripeness in this style, indeed it’s a quite sexy Nebb and riper than the moodier 2021 wine above. It’s already open, even if it’s cloaked in classic chewy tannins. A very attractive warm year wine with lovely flesh. 18.5/20, 94/100.

Ceretto Barolo 2020

A curious wine this, but also has the stamp of 2020. It’s thick. Blocky. Less clearly defined – it doesn’t sing Barolo. The rose and cherry mid palate and sucking tannins but it doesn’t feel generous – it’s a cutting wine of structure but not quite enough give, that was outclassed by everything around it, even though judged solo it would likely be a good drink. Context matters. 17.7/20, 92/100.

Ceretto Barolo 2017

Not a great vintage and it looks a bit sweet and sour. There’s this caramel oak and dried fruit vibe with jutting extract and firm acid. Enjoyable enough and distinctively Barolo, but a bit dry and forward. 17.5/20, 91/00.

Ceretto Barolo Prapo 2019

This feels like a work in progress. A big, slightly volatile, and blocky Barolo that pushes you around (unlike the more refined carress of the Bernardot above). Rock solid raspberry red fruit punch wins the mid palate, even if it feels just a bit foursquare. Time will be very kind – this has the chops for high flying status. 18/20, 93/100.

Ceretto Barolo Brunate 2020

Chunky, but with more detail than the ‘standard’ 2020. Both sweet fruited and fruity but not the profound elegance. It tastes of cherry jam with a bit of dust. A mid-palate wine of almost boysenberry ripe fruit. Really quite open and enjoyable, if not quite as epic in structure as the Bricco Rocche. 18/20, 93/100.

Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 2020

A similar vibe to the Brunate, but cloaked in more pithy tannins. Mid palate, ripe cherries and firm tannins. It’s probably less enjoyable than the Brunate right now, but it builds more in the back palate. High quality, very tight and rather handsome modern Barolo, even if I would rather one of the more restrained Barbaresco wines. 18.5/20, 94/100.