Today is #ChardonnayDay, which joins the ranks of the other made-up ‘grape days’ created by wine marketers (like me, on occasion) looking for any leverage to drive more wine sales (which everyone needs right now. It’s really tough out there).
Rather than just one day, why not make the rest of the month #ChardoMay? In previous years, I’ve had a red hot attempt at devoting the whole month to Chardonnay – see the first crack a few years back. But this year it’s just been a pile of Chardonnay samples, staring at me, asking when I’m going to actually open them.
So, today, let’s dive into a proper #ChardoMay lineup – a smorgasbord of some high-quality local Chardonnay (plus a token Kiwi) with plenty of wines that I’d really like to drink.
Chardonnay is in such a great place in Australia.
Angullong Crossing Reserve Chardonnay 2023
This is the best Angullong wine to date. The first Reserve Chardonnay, and interestingly, all matured in older oak, which is not the reserve way at all. I’m ok with this. Some of the Angullong whites can be a bit mean, but this has power, with intense white nectarine and a layer of creamed citrus. This has an excellent balance between orange/citrus and nectarine density, with a bit of the orange blossom Orange fragrance and a taut but not hard finish. It’s a little lean, still, but it feels like class at every turn. Smart wine.
Best drinking: good now, probably even better next year. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $50. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.
Balgownie Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2023
Fingers crossed that the Balgownie brand continues, as I rather like the wines. Intriguingly, the Bendigo vineyard, winery and restaurant are up for sale again after the property developer new owners put part of the estate back up for sale. An even bigger finger crossing exercise that the 1969 vineyard finds a new home, rather than being smooshed for McMansions. Meanwhile, this is an open and easy Yarra Chard from Balgownie’s (remaining) Yarra arm. Lightly peachy nougat nose, a viscous and generous palate,in a riper styled of old school Yarra Chard with just enough freshness. Plenty likeable.
Best drinking: nowish. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.2%, $55. Would I buy it? A few glasses.
Curly Flat Chardonnay 2023
Curly Flat Chardonnay always needs more time in bottle to come together. Always. This 2023, especially so – it’s a backward wine that very much looks 12.4% alcohol. Fine and appley, there’s this unreleting creamed apple richness and so much more flavour for this sort of alcohol. Still, that tang is very persistent, a real grapefruit lingering punch. Artful wine, though, and that custard apple richness over the top points to the absolute quality, and I found myself wanting to drink this.
Best drinking: later. Maybe 2-3 years for prime time and then a decade. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.4%, $54. Would I buy it? Sure would.
Heggies Single Block Reserve Chardonnay 2022
There is always so much ambition in these Heggies premium Chardonnay releases, but getting the ripeness balance right seems elusive (either too much or too little). This had some mighty work in the winery, with flashes of golden oak highlights and these nutty, waxy, milk bottle reduction funk making quite a statement. For all that personality, the palate that is ultimately a little too grapefruit acidity-driven to be great, just a little more baume would go a long way. There’s lots going on here, and it fully deserves a strong silver, yet that step up to even greater cohesion is the final missing element.
Best drinking: two years in bottle would be welcome. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $52. Would I buy it? A few glasses.
Jules Taylor Chardonnay 2023
A golden Marlborough sunrise. Oh yes, this will win some friends. Golden citrus and a warm peachy sunshine roundness here, with some creamy edges. It doesn’t have warm climate warmth on the finish, though, just ripe fruit. Creamy. Lowish acid is about right for this easy style, too. Sure, it’s a bit obvious, but spot on for what the intended style.
Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5%, $29. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.
Shaw & Smith Lenswood Chardonnay 2023
Another super classy release of this top-shelf Chardonnay, tempered only by a question of whether it’s a little too tight. Filigreed white peach style, coiffed and fresh white flower and white citrus, vanilla bean oak, lightness and air at every turn. Coiffed is a good word for it. If anything, you could write this off as it feels too formative. Lovely purity, though, and every time I taste this wine, I think about the mad skills of Adam Wadewitz to get such technical winemaking perfection.
Best drinking: at least two years away. 18.5/20, 94/100+. 13%, $99. Would I buy it? Interesting to share a bottle, but not worth buying as a drink yet.
Steel’s Gate Home Block Chardonnay 2023
Lots of personality in Brad Atkins & Matthew Davis’ Steel’s Gate range. Quality fruit really shines through, for mine. This Chardonnay, off the 1980s planted Home Block at Dixon’s Creek, has real interest. A flourish of golden nuttiness, lots going on! It’s tight, driven by green apple tang, the flavours still unfurling in bottle. The finish is interesting too – flecks of apple and green-ish fruit before a long, and undulating finish. This is complex stuff! Yes, a little more ripeness would be welcome, perhaps, but that length, that x-factor power is excellent.
Best drinking: good now, likely even better in 2-3 years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.7%, $45ish. Would I buy it? Well worth a bottle.
Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2024
I always love Brian (Croser)’s notes that come with every Tapanappa wine, especially the details on weather and vintage. A grape nerd’s delight! 2024 has a ‘near perfect’ label in the Piccadilly Valley from Brian with a head degree summation of 1194°C days versus 1108°C days average. Low crops in 2024 (4t/ha if you’re counting). In fact, the only challenge here is that we’re looking at this wine way too young – history says that anything below about four years post-harvest is too young for Tiers. This 2024 is indeed prepubescent and feels it. There’s the solid grapefruit and citrus core, with everything in perfect position, some of the chalky creamy vibe (and oak and vineyard character) that is also classic Tiers. Ripe wine too – there’s a subtle hint of volume on the back. Wonderful. The only thing that stops you short is that it’s too tight – not unapproachable, but there is another dimension here that you’re missing out on by drinking now. It will be a great Tiers in time. Still the wine I’d most like to drink in this entire lineup.
Best drinking: yes, you can open it now, but I would stick it away for two Christmases. 18.5/20, 94/100+ 14.1%, $110. Would I buy it? I love Tiers, and this is a winner, so yes.
Tapanappa Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2024
Instantly Tapanappa with this second label wine too – something about the golden white peach fruit that makes this a Croser-influenced label. Definitely some of the old Petaluma Chardonnay about this wine too – it feels golden and open, the fruit still with a grapefruit acid-shaped profile, but with sunny white and yellow ripe peach layered on top. It doesn’t quite tighten up like the refined and taut Tiers wine, instead trading in a little melon on the finish. A drink now, sunny Chardonnay with weight, it’s going to be popular, even if it might tip a little bit over into weightiness for gold medal points.
Best drinking: good now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.9%, $60. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.
Vella Wines Harvest Widow Chardonnay 2019
From Mark & Jen Vella, devoted to Jen who ‘holds the fort looking after the kids while I am nowhere to be seen for three months picking grapes’. Shout out to all the vintage partners out there! A rudely healthy Adelaide Hills Chardonnay this is too. Light straw, there’s a veil of milk bottle reduction and an encroaching toasty development, but otherwise clean lines of white peach and gently nutty golden flavours with more grapefruit leanness than peachy fat. You get the impression this would have been very taut on release, now it’s a bit more waxy and much more enjoyable, if still a little angular to finish.
Best drinking: nowish, no hurry. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $32. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.
Zonzo Estate Chardonnay 2023
Caroline Mooney has such a deft hand with Chardonnay, that I’m not really surprised that this Zonzo Estate Chardonnay is a winner (and a relative bargain). A careful mix here of funk and delicacy here, with a great sense of purity and lightness to the appley fruit. It’s perhaps a little taut to finish, but style is definitely there. Well priced too.
Best drinking: now and for a good five years. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $30. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle and possibly drink most of it.
Some non-Chardonnay wines
Balgownie Estate Viognier 2023
Tony Winspear has put so much work into Viognier in recent years, and this Bendigo release is a really enjoyable, varietal wine. Ginger, nectarine, though not that much apricot marmalade, which is interesting. Indeed, this is a more tangy, phenolic and taut mode of Viognier that you wouldn’t instantly see as 13.8% alcohol. Certainly has some varietal swagger too – impressive go at the V weed.
Best drinking: nowish. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.8%, $45. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two for sure.
Juniper Semillon 2024
I’ve had quite a bit of Margaret River Semillon lately, randomly, and this is one of the better wines. Handpicked Semillon here, wild fermented and matured for nine months in barrel. Has a creamed passionfruit vibe to it – really quite juicy and tropical Passiona, from what is otherwise a lemony green white. Call it a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend, and I wouldn’t be surprised. Yet, there are layers here, a quite creamy palate width, although the acid tautness needs it, with that creamed dill and lemon Bordeaux blanc flavour contrast that I really like. This is maybe a little sweet and sour in the finish, but yes to the charisma. I might even be underrating it.
Best drinking: now and for at least five years (and likely plenty more. This style does not fall over). 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $40. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.
Tim Smith Roussanne 2024
50 cases produced of this Barossan Roussanne. A full tilt ripe style with creamed red apple and barrel notes. It’s a bit raw but loads of red apple flavours with the barrel ferment character filling out the holes. A round and mouthful of flavour that actually tastes like Roussanne.
Best drinking: over the next five years, with a sweet spot in the next two years-ish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $45. Would I buy it? A glass or two.
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