It’s always a pleasurable change of pace to slip back into student life and when the subject is as relevant (and topical) about grapevine management then life is easy. Already we’ve touched on the use of dogs in vineyards to sniff out phylloxera/checking for Brett and the reasons why Chardonnay grapes don’t shrivel (it’s all about berry cell death).

Admittedly such topics aren’t going to enthral everyone, but for those with a more than a passing interest in wine, this is serous wine geek fun (or at least I think so).

Naturally tonight involved a few vinos (no beer though – my bad) as there is not much else to do at nighttime when staying on campus than to drink (though no Muscat – I forgot).

With this little lineup I went looking for wines sourced in the regional Victoria/Southern NSW part of the world. The Mudgee Chardonnay is clearly an outlier….

Mitchell Harris Sauvignon Blanc Fume 2013 (Pyrenees, Vic)13%, Screwcap, $25

Montrose Stony Creek Chardonnay 2012 (Mudgee, NSW)
12%, Screwcap, $24

From a cool and wet vintage, this rather backward Montrose Chardonnay is going to need some time. Nutty and full and compact, the oak quite resinous for what is some quite lean fruit. Should impress with another year in bottle methinks as the structure is more than sound, yet I found it just a bit raw and clumsy for the moment. 16.5/20, 88/100+

De Bortoli Deen Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2009 (Riverina, NSW)

11%, Screwcap, $14 375ml

What a glorious price for this sticky – very impressive value. It smells superb, with a creme brûlée honeycomb nose that just channels Sauternes. If only the slightly blowsy and somewhat shapeless palate could match up with the picture perfect nose. Gold medal nose, off medal palate. Let’s meet in the middle for a bronze. 16/20, 87/100

Westend 3 Bridges Durif 2012 (Riverina, NSW)
14.5%, Screwcap, $25

This is a very impressive release of this oft-forgotten red wine, carrying all of the richness and thickness that Westend’s 3 Bridges is all about. It smells decadent, with an early noughties-esque oak and fruit rich nose that presents like a wall of flavour. The palate feels just bottled and very youthful, a dense, generous and full red with lots of fruit and loads of tannins. It finishes a little raw, the alcohol and acid a bit too firm. Still, pound for pound this is big and hearty Aussie red with boatloads of flavour and the sort of depth not often associated with Riverina reds. It just needs a few more years.
17/20, 90/100+

Tahbilk Old Vines Cab Shiraz 2010 (Goulburn Valley, Vic)
13.5%, Screwcap, $46

A new entrant in the Tahbilk range and a classic in the making. There’s something wonderfully old school here – a suggestion of tilled earth and black fudge. Not sweet, just earthen and thick. Great, slightly thick tannins and a real hearty, olde worlde, big sky Aussie grit to the finish. Maybe a bit rough around the edges, yet the overall impression is of a wine that is quintessentially Australian and absolutely timeless. A real Tahbilk red.
18/20, 93/100+