A #semsational look at Thomas Wines Braemore + Kiss Shiraz over the past 20 years

In 1999, Andrew ‘Thommo’ Thomas left his longtime job at Tyrrell’s to make a name for himself.

After 13 years at what McLaren Vale-raised Thomas fondly calls a Hunter Valley ‘finishing school’, he was ready to kick some goals of his own.

Fast forward twenty-five vintages and Thommo is now only the second person ever to win Hunter Valley Winemaker of the Year three times, and really is one of the contemporary masters of Hunter Valley Shiraz and Semillon.

Sure, that comes with a caveat, as Thommo is a mate, and I’ve emptied more of his wines than many. Regardless, there are few 10-year-old Australian whites anywhere that can pack in the complexity and unquestioned freshness like the sublime 2013 Braemore Semillon.

Indeed, that Sem was just one fo the standouts in the vertical opened by Thommo recently as part of the during the Thomas Wines ‘Silver Jubilee Celebration’, with lineups of Braemore Semillon & Kiss Shiraz delivering plenty of Hunter Valley bang.

Actually, a bang is a misnomer – the modern iterations of the flagship Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz are graceful, 13.5% alcohol, Hunter Burgundy-esque reds of purple fruited evenness. That’s a shift from the early Kiss releases, which were often grandiose wines compared to the moderate Hunter Valley Shiraz idiom. Even Thommo acknowledges that some of those early Kiss releases were a bit big and oaky.

Anyway, enough chat; let’s dive into some wines. I’ve included as many Thommo quotes as possible.

Thomas Wines OC Semillon 2023

This comes from the Oakey Creek Vineyard planted in 1976 on a sandy loam strip, with a circa 3t/acre crop. Of all the wines in Thommo’s portfolio, this has ‘the most purity and precision’ according to Thommo, with ‘more of the lemon zest character’ and is ‘very vibrant’.

A fragrant thing, but not green. Green lime and lemon styles. Serious limey green fruit on the palate. It’s tangy and taut, classic Tahitian lime sort of tightness. I wouldn’t drink this now – it’s super tangy. It looks much more lemony and high-toned vs. the mid-palate power of Braemore. Long, too, with its green melon and tang. Nice wine. 18/20, 93/100+.

Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2023

‘(Braemore) has an extra level of potential kinetic energy… This comes off a strip next to Hermitage rd that I call the Grand Cru for Hunter Valley Semillon’ Thomas notes. He bought the Braemore vineyard in 2017 from Ken Bray, though Bray still manages the vineyard. ‘I smell more pineapple and guava in this as a young wine. I saw this in 2022 as well. It’s probably not “classic” as it’s in the riper end of the spectrum for Braemore, but I know that (fruit character) blow off in a few month’s time’ he also mentions. Interestingly, Braemore Sem has an average pH of 3.1, but the 2023 sits just under 3.0, which is very low historically. Also, this isn’t strictly bone dry, as Thommo explains, ‘In the cooler years, I am bottling this with a little more residual at a sub perceptible level. This year, Braemore has 1.5-2g/L’

This is indeed a more juicy wine, to the point of gooseberry and stonefruit. But that’s a young wine distraction, as this is still taut, low alcohol, green-fruited wine of power and acidity. Green apples, lemon, a flash of melon, but then capped with driving acidity. A riper year, Braemore maybe (and more about fruit power than the sandy crispness of OC), but with the mid-palate power and acid-shaped length, that feels more cool year. High class, but so embryonic. 18.5/20, 94/100+.

Thomas Wines Braemore Semillon 2019

‘Just because it’s a Hunter Semillon, doesn’t give it license to age for a very long time’. Thomas explains. ‘There is a general perception out there in the marketplace to drink this an aged wine’ he also notes, explaining that the young wines can still be really enjoyable drinks, But with a caveat, ‘to my palate, Braemore looks best at ten years of age’.

Taut and in a transition. Hay and lemon, grippy acidity, it feels chalky and there is a flirt of secondary flavours yet the fruit hasn’t blossomed. All pithy green fruit still. Come back to see this wine in its full glory. 18/20, 93/100+

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2017

Something of a warmer year for Hunter Semillon but also a classic vintage. The trick for that classicness is indeed about acidity – though maybe not how you think’, as Thommo explains, ‘Semillon has quite moderate acidity. It always irks me, judging at wine shows when people joke about battery acidity. But what Semillon does have is a very low pH’. For context, Thommo says that ‘my Braemore has a TA of high 6s, up to 7.5g/L max’, which is less acidity than some equivalent Riesling. I’ve had this three times now with similar notes.

Lemony and a little toast, but it feels a very backward wine and quite chewy. Great length – very classical. Superstar length. Wow, length even though the nose is backward and with this almost melon fruit. Managed to be both power-packed and yet crisp. Lots to come. 18.7/20, 95/100+

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2013

‘If I had to choose just one vintage from my 25 working with Braemore, it would be 2013’ notes Thommo.

This is it. The wine. In the ideal drinking zone, it has lemon-lime custard, a wonderful gentle nutty creaminess and perfect acidity. Archetypal. Love the very fine whipped butter and vaguely green pea layer contrasts – it’s at once a rich white wine but with acidity and firm lines. Man, this is just Semillon perfection, with so many flavour shades to grab onto. 19/20, 96/100.

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2009

I see this as a more forward wine, but generous too. Lemon buttercup, a little baby sick (which sounds bad but is a classic Sem aged character. It’s like a funky milk character. It’s a more forward and yellow sunny wine, but the acidity feels pithy enough as a contrast. Nice drink, but shadowed by the wines around it. 18/20, 93/100.

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2007

Lemony and rather backward still. This is so snappy, though- it feels a little melony and forward but the acidity just pulls you back. Fifteen years on, and you could still wait to drink! 18.5/20, 94/100.

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2004

Much more of the honey toast that you’d expect from an older Semillon. Open and lovely. Moreish in its openness – the fruit and the toast tend to fill in the holes. Delicious, in an almost Chardonnay-like opulence. A delight. 18.7/20, 95/100.

Thomas Wines Braemore Cellar Reserve Semillon 2001

Cork sealed. One of the last cork-closed vintages and massive losses from cork issues around this time for Thommo, who describes how he threw out boxes and boxes of oxidised wines.

Toasty nutty and a suggestion of the cork influence here. Forward, and a fraction maderised. Not in the same realm as the wines around, though it has excellent bones underneath and is certainly still drinkable. 17.5/20, 91/100.

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2021

Kiss comes off the Pokolbin Estate Vineyard, planted in 1969 (almost across the road from the Brokenwood winery if you’re interested in context). Cropped at just over 1t/acre on ‘tough clay loam’ soils. 2021 was a tricky La Niña vintage, though Thommo believes that thinning crops by 40% in the weeks before harvest helped get full ripeness. Matured for 16 months in 22% new hogsheads. 13.7% alcohol. Similar notes to last time as well.

Red ruby and quite pretty. This is very Hunter – a rather elegant mid-weight Shiraz. Actually, elegant is not quite right, as there is a gruffness here, too, with that powdery, red earth textural grip that comes with less chunky ripe fruit. It feels like a wet year wine (which it is), but that silken red fruit is quite generous. A different shade of Kiss and unquestionably appealing. 18.5/20, 94/100.

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2019

A moderate wine, too, though maybe not as even as the 2021. I find this bright but just a little tangy, with a flavour of raspberries in black soil and a little leather. Again, proper Hunter Valley style. In a transitional stage, but the bones are there. 18/20, 93/100.

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2018

‘You can take the boy out of McLaren Vale’, says Thommo, noting how he ‘really likes this wine’.

Open and hearty – this a big, luscious and open sort of wine. Had that same charcuterie and raspberry character, but it’s a big hug of a wine. I see the oak here, too. But it’s a big and chunky hearty Hunter red. So different to the 19! Maybe a bit obvious, but loads of appeal. 18.5/20, 94/100

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2014

Probably the most Kiss-tasting wine in this lineup, I think. This is the paradigm wine. Bacon fat and a bit of cranberry, it feels instantly bold and muscular – a swaggering Hunter Shiraz. Cured meats, more dark fruits than red, and grippy tannins. Big-time Hunter red. 18.7/20, 95/100.

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2009

You can see the age in this Hunter red, though years to go. Brick dust, big oak and big flavours. A push-pull of richness vs. the secondary earthen notes of bottle age. This feels a bit jaunty on the palate, too, with angular acidity. I can appreciate this wine, but it wouldn’t be my choice. 17.7/20, 92/100.

Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2005

The last vintage with lots of new oak, but no questioning how it has shaped this wine (i.e. into a still seductive red).

Caramel. That’s the dominant flavour here. Very slick still and plush. Indeed, it feels younger than the 09. It’s a chunky, ripe wine with this polished, chocolatey palate. It would have been a bold and oak-shaped wine in its youth! Pretty charming despite the slickness – you’re going to win friends with this red. 18/20, 93/100.